Signs of these financial impacts are already emerging. Bayer (BAYGn.DE), opens new tab shares fell sharply to a 20-year low on Tuesday, after the chemical company warned that weak global agricultural markets and a slumping U.S. farm economy are likely to pressure profits further.

Agrichemical competitors Syngenta, Corteva (CTVA.N), opens new tab and the agriculture unit of Germany’s BASF (BASFn.DE), opens new tab could also face challenges in the sector, analysts said.

Nearly one-third of all the pesticides and fungicides that Paul Butler uses on his Illinois soybean and corn farm are generic to help him cut costs in a tight year, he said.

Fellow Illinois grain grower Jeff O’Connor is doing the same. “It’s like if you grew up eating Fruity Pebbles and now you go to Dollar General and get Fruity Bites,” he said.

Despite the cost savings, farmers say there can be drawbacks to downgrading. Manufacturers of generic chemicals typically do not cover the cost of respraying if the product does not work, said Caleb Hamer, an Iowa corn and soy farmer.

Still, Midwestern distributors and grain elevators say they have seen customers cutting back their spring pesticide and herbicide budgets.

Some farmers are shifting away from branded products, said Matt Carstens, chief executive of farm cooperative Landus and agricultural financing company Conduit. Others are investing in equipment that targets and treats weeds and pests in their fields – allowing them to buy less herbicides and pesticides altogether, he said.

“It comes down to this: What does the farmer really need? Do they need a name brand, with protection insurance and complaint policies backing it? Do they need to pay for all of that?” Carstens said.

OFF-PATENT CHEMISTRY

When it comes to chemistry, a farmer’s buying decisions often are rooted in the seed.

Farmers typically base their chemical purchases with trait-specific seeds they want – such as ones that produce a drought-tolerant crop or can withstand herbicide applications that kill weeds without harming the plant.

If there is a generic option to brand-name herbicides, and the seeds that a farmer purchases can tolerate it, then it can makes sense to go with a less expensive product, said Mac Marshall, founder of agriculture advising firm Balcony View Consulting.

The number of generics available to farmers is growing. The patent for glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup and the world’s most widely used herbicide, expired in 2000, according to Rabobank agricultural analysts Owen Wagner and Sam Taylor.

More than two dozen active ingredient patents have expired in the past five years – spurring a boom in off-patent use, which now accounts for about 80% of the agrichemical market share, they said.

Now, with farmers facing weak margins this spring, they’re more likely to look for cost savings among their fertilizer or crop protection chemicals, Taylor said.

Reporting by P.J. Huffstutter and Heather Schlitz in Chicago. Additional reporting by Karl Plume in Chicago; Editing by David Gregorio

By P.J. Huffstutter and Heather Schlitz

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WHY IS COMPOSTING A GOOD IDEA?

→ You can greatly reduce the waste in your home by recycling it into compost.

→ The compost you produce will improve your soil and save you money on buying fertilisers and soil amendments.

→ You will save money on your water bill as composting your garden beds increases water retention in soil.

→ Promote healthy fruit and flower production.

→ Prevent plant diseases.

→ Help the greater environment by reducing methane production in landfills.

→ Maintain a healthy ecosystem in your garden.

→ Promote beneficial microorganisms in your soil.

→ Prevent plant diseases.

→ Keep the soil food web system in your garden healthy.

COMPOSTING BASICS

There are certain elements that are generally required to make compost:

→ Air: Healthy bacteria that break down organic matter needs air to flourish; a lack of ventilation will lead to bad odours and attract vermin.

→ Water: Beneficial organisms that live in compost heaps need water to live and move around the pile.

→ Vegetable matter: The key ingredient for nutrient-rich compost or soil conditioner.

→ Brown biodegradables: Carbon-rich materials, paper, cardboard, woodchips, newspaper, wood branches and straw are essential for ventilation and keeping your compost heap moist.

→ Green biodegradables: Nitrogen-rich materials, grass clippings, leaf litter and dead plant material are essential to create the right temperature and to kill seeds and diseases.

→ Bacteria (EMOs): Decomposes organic matter.

→ Worms: Digest decomposed organic matter and make worm castings high in nutrients for plants to absorb.

→ Soldier flies: Devour food waste faster than worms and bacteria (not essential).

→ Other beneficial bugs: Cockroaches, white worms, millipedes, snails, slugs, mites and many more all help break down organic matter.

Keep a watchful eye on your compost pile to spot bad signs early and take the necessary steps to salvage it:

→ Material is not decomposing: The microorganisms are not thriving. Make sure that your ratio of green and brown biodegradables are balanced and that there is sufficient moisture.

→ Bad smells: This occurs when the pile does not have enough oxygen or is too acidic. Turn your pile and add brown biodegradables. If your pile has a lot of citrus peels, counteract it with ash or lime to restore the PH.

→ Pile is oozing liquid: The pile is too wet due to overwatering or adding too much vegetable matter. You can add brown biodegradables.

→ Dry leaves are not breaking down: Your pile is too dry. Adding vegetable matter will help.

→ Lack of insects: The ratio of your ingredients is off. Investigate what is lacking in green, brown and vegetable matter and moisture.

WHAT CAN BE COMPOSTED?

Brown biodegradables

→ Dry leaves

→ Plant stalks and twigs

→ Shredded paper and brown bags

→ Cardboard

→ Untreated wood

Green biodegradables

→ Food and vegetable scraps

→ Grass cuttings and garden waste

→ Coffee grounds and tea bags

→ Eggshells (crushed)

WHAT TO AVOID

Brown biodegradables

→ Disease- and pest-infested plants

→ Plants that have been treated with pesticides and herbicides

→ Treated or painted wood

→ Plastic bags, containers and labels

→ Glossy paper

Green biodegradables

→ Meat, fish and bones

→ Cheese and dairy products

→ Fats, oils and greases

→ Aggressive weeds with seeds

→ Cat and dog faeces

→ Plants that naturally repel insects: garlic, mint, lavender, citronella and mint

COMPOSTING METHODS

There are three main composting methods: aerobic (with air), anaerobic (without air) and vermicomposting (with earthworms).

1. Aerobic composting: This method entails speeding up decomposition with oxygen by turning or windrows.

Windrow is a method used on a large scale, forming long rows of organic matter and turning it mechanically or manually. Due to the labour or machinery required to turn the composting piles aerobic composting can be used on large scale, community gardens, large estates and restaurant waste.

Aerated static pile composting layers organic matter and bulking agents like cardboard and paper to allow for ventilation. Ventilation pipes can be placed to extract or blow air into the pile, depending on the pile temperature. This method is suitable for large domestic gardens and schools.

2. Anaerobic composting: Organic matter decomposes in an airtight container with the help of microorganisms. This takes a very long time and a large space is required.

3. Vermicomposting: Red earthworms are kept in a bin to break down food scraps to create castings and worm tea. The bins can vary in size depending on the amount of organic waste produced by the household or facility. This method is ideal for apartments, small offices and homes. It can also be scaled up to suit any size facility.

Home composting methods

→ Open-air composting: A pile of organic garden material in your backyard. An enclosure constructed with anything you can find or a plastic container turned into a compost bin. Start the pile with a layer of brown bulking agent like straw, paper, cardboard and woodchips. Layer your heap with garden litter or food scraps and bulking agents. Introduce a nitrogen-rich source like manure or grass clippings. Keep the pile moist.

→ Direct composting: Digging a trench in the ground and directly putting organic kitchen waste in and covering it with soil. This takes longer to decompose; you will need garden space for this. However, this method can attract unwanted animals into the garden.

→ Tumbler composting: A large bin that can be sealed attached to a structure allowing you to rotate it with your hand. You can purchase a tumbler bin in various sizes. This is an easy and effective way to speed up decomposition by turning your compost regularly and the container keeps the temperature high.

→ Worm farm composting:  There are various products to purchase, or you could make your own. All you need is a plastic container with a lid layered with brown biodegradables and food scraps. The brown biodegradables need to be kept moist (like a wrung-out sponge) but not wet to prevent rot and disease. Do not use earthworms from your garden – you can purchase earthworms at garden centres or ask a friend with a worm farm to get you started. A great by-product from this method is ‘worm tea’ – the liquid is regularly drained from the container and can be directly poured into pot plants. The worm castings are used as a soil conditioner in the garden or pots.

→ EMO composting: This is an anaerobic method. Food scraps and organic waste are kept in a sealed bin. A mix of microbes is added and the liquids that are produced are drained off until organic waste is fermented and ready to be used as compost. This method is odourless. Bokashi bins are used for indoor composting and is ideal for apartments.

→ Combination composting: A combination of open-air, direct, vermi-composting and EMO composting. This method is typically used by people who are familiar with the decomposition process and combines practices as they see fit.

Written by Charlotta Carolissen and published in Food&Home Autumn 2023.

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